The Amazing Sugess Air Command

Recently, I just found out that Sugess makes another homage with ST19 Seagull movement, again kinda boring though, but this one is special, for me at least, they make a homage of Blancpain Air Command!!! I sell my previous Sugess Chronograph (thank God that watch is beautiful so no wonder there will be buyer for it) to upgrade into this one ha ha. And voila, I bought it in a heartbeat, no regret whatsover somehow.

Nice homage

After waiting for a while, finally it arrives!!! And again, the packaging is the same as the previous Sugess, nothing to write home about. It came with two easy replace leather strap but with so-so quality (not comfortable if you ask me). It also came with a manual but…it could be applied to any ST19 movement watch. Nothing special in packaging area, carry on then.

But the watch itself…it is glorious!!!! To sum it, the rest of the blog probably full of praise and a little complaint (cuz nothing is perfect, there always flaw(s) in everything). First thing first, the spec:

• Type            : Chrono Heritage S423 (let’s just call it Air Command, it is cooler that way)
• Diameter    : 42mm
• Thickness  : 11.5mm (13mm with sapphire glass)
• Lug width   : 22mm
• Lug to Lug : 51mm
• Glass         : Domed Sapphire Crystal
• Movement  : Manual winding Caliber Seagull ST1901 (Gold Swan Neck Version), 21 Jewels
• BPM           : 21,600 BPH
• Power Reserve : 35+ Hours
• Water Resistant : 5ATM (arguably)

Magnificent

This watch is a copy (homage, or anything you wanna call) of Blancpain Air Command, an almost exact replica with a slight difference (most notable dial branding and movement). The original is a beautiful watch with a big size (just like Fifty Fathom). And Blancpain heard the cries of many people who said the watch is too big so they make a smaller version of it, a 36.2mm diameter if it, which is a marvel just like the bigger brother, though I need to see the smaller version to decide whether the smaller is better suit for me. So far this one is perfect for me.

From Shreve Crump Low Youtube channel. The smaller one kinda have weird hands doesn’t it?

Back to the Sugess, this watch is a real show stopper. It’s huge but not ginormous or gigantic, it’s beautiful and it is commanding ha ha. Designwise, if you love Blancpain Air Command, you probably gonna love this. In Sugess Patek Phillipe homage, the brand Sugess on the dial is kinda out of place and annoying, but in this Air Command the word Sugess somehow blends beautifully with the whole dial aesthetic. The bezel also beautiful yet minimalistic, the bi-directional bezel with 24 clicks which is firm enough not to accidentally moved, just like the real Blancpain and most GMT watch (if Sugess decided to make GMT watch, this bezel is primed for the whole GMT bezel needs). The printed dial is beautiful and symmetrical, kudos for Blancpain for design this beautiful specimen. Even if it’s crowded or busy, it still looks beautiful and elegant. The hands also commanding, with sword-pointy hands in all really points out the elegance of it’s design.

Busy and crowded but beautiful nonetheless

The watch also reasonably thick but not…fat? The case is beautifully designed. The upper view (dial) is gorgeous, the bottom side also marvelous with see through case showing the beautiful ST19 movement, side view is also good, though the side view have annoying part…the crown. The crown have this “ugly” brand of Sugess. The crown have this generic “S” that makes the watch less perfect. Thank God the pusher is a joy to behold, and hold to activate ha ha. To sum it, a proportional watch.

The best part is how the watch wears in my 17cm wrist, it fits somehow. Sure spec wise the size is big (commanding) but this is a pilot watch, it needs to be visible, but somehow this watch flawlessly fits into my wrist, unlike my Steeldive 1952 (the Blancpain fifty fathom homage). Both are long watch, both have 51mm lug to lug but somehow this Air Command seems more…wearable (the Steeldive would required a “perfect” or have to be fit strap to make the watch stand firm on my wrist). Probably this is due to the slope or curve in the lug, unlike the straight pointy lug in Fifty Fathom. Seriously, it is almost magical to wear it, kinda like seamlessly blends. Maybe it’s because the diameter and stap is bigger thus makes the proportion more compact. I really enjoys wearing this watch, I wonder of the smaller version is better or probably weird due to the comparison with the bigger brother. To me, this size is perfect.

Somehow Steeldive is bigger

The lume is very good, just like my previous Sugess, this one just like that but better, especially because the bezel also has lume. This watch is stands out in the light and in the dark, very visible as pilot watch should be. Shine bright like diamond he he.

Even the bezel have lume

What about movement? Well, standard ST19 movement. Pretty accurate, beautiful to look at and reliable. If there a downside, probably the ticking noise. It is noticeable, though only if you put it beside you when you sleep. Barely noticeable but still noticeable. But yeah, this movement is a heaven for micro brand to make an affordable chronograph mechanical watch. No complaint here. Oh yeah, about gold swan neck version, barely noticable unless you saw the back case when you activate the chronograph function. So IMHO not a must, the non-swan version is cheaper and still good. The snapback or flyback combine with the satisfying pusher makes chronograph activation and stopping a pure joy, all for an affordable price.

Beautiful movement

This watch is a very handsome watch, strap monster and you can dress it up or dress it down. A very versatile watch that could be wore in any occasion. If you don’t mind the fact that this is a homage, copy or whatever you call it. This one is a keeper for me. It’s big, not loud but gentle and demanding. A very awesome watch. Kudos for Blancpain for this watch (Sugess just blatanly homage it he he).

Pure strap monster

Sugess Vintage Chronograph (Furlan Marri or Patek Phillipe 1463 Homage)

After seeing Baltic Bi-compax Chronograph have a quite good review and even crazy price (in Indonesia it’s sold for Rp. 14.000.000,- or approximately $ 944,96) I was stunned. I mean, that watch using Seagull 19t movement, the one I already had (that I sold because it was too Chinese, design wise and delicate for me) but what makes that watch so excellent?

Besides it is beautiful he he

Is a build quality or finishing could worth that much? Or it’s just marketing or the fact Baltix came from Europe (French to be exact)? Well I don’t have the answer but I have an itch to revisit Seagull movement. I mean, if it were sold that expensive, it has a qualification that have European standard or verified quality right? Right….?😅

So I just browsing to look another watch with Seagull movement, probably a homage of another iconic but not too lazy or exact copy of it, since one of my complaints with 1963 is that the watch is too Chinese for me ha ha. Then I found this Sugess….for a company that loves to rip-off design from others legends, this one is kinda subtle in the copy department….reminds me of Furlan Marri ha ha. I mean seriously, this almost an exact copy but the great part is Sugess is mechanical (while Furlan Marri is meca-quartz) so this is kinda an upgrade ha ha.

The resemblance is uncanny

The next step is to find a seller that willing to ship this baby to Indonesia from China and somehow I found a local guy from different island in Indonesia. So all systems go! 

But the fun part is, this type defined as Patek Phillipe homage1463, not Furlan Marri…still not complaining since from the picture this watch is beautiful. But for safety measures I chose blue gilded cuz at least the dial won’t be as disappointed if I choose the salmon dial that have high chance of ended up with brown dial (in my mind the blue color is safer to be f*%cked up he he. I mean it’s a basic blue, worst part either too blue or too light blue). 

The resemblance is too generic honestly

So, for Rp. 4.000.000,- or approximately $270 this watch is….awesome. I mean, it’s not the finesse or build quality that is awesome, but the overall package. This watch is really good, IMHO. Sure the box is below average and the quick release leather strap is nothing to write home about (the “genuine” leather is too stiff and too old looking for my taste) but this watch is very good.

Extra straps. Nice but the quality is kinda….meh he he

First thing first, spec:

• Movement seagull st1901 mechanichal 
• Material 316L stainlees Stell 
• Sapphire crystal, maybe?
• Diameter 38mm 
• Thickness 13mm 
• Weight 69 gram 
• Lug 20mm 
• Lug to lug 46 mm 

So yeah, this is the smaller one, the 38mm with 20mm strap, the other version is the bigger 41mm with 22mm strap, but since I own that lovely Rima Chronograph, the vintage small watch is my way to go now!!! Hashtag make small watch sexy again.

The glass is dome sapphire that radiates vintage vibe, it has drill lug to make switching strap easier (though it given quick release strap as default). I could say that design wise, this is a very good watch (because they are homage of a great watch?) and value for money is really good, mechanical Chronograph is expensive, but thanks to Seagull it can be affordable.

Size wise, this is as small as “modern” chronograph could be. A safe size for everyone probably. The build quality is actually pretty good. The brushed, the polished and the form of the case is really nice, not exceptionally astonishing, but really good. No sharp edges and comfortable to wear. Not too thick even with the dome glass.

The crown is kinda weird, etched with the “S” logo that didn’t blend well with the beautiful vintage style, the font is kinda too modern and that blue-ish “stain” on the crown, either the paint chipped off or just faded kinda diminishingly the beauty of this watch.

That “S” really didn’t blend with the whole watch

The movement is also good, it’s the reliable seagull movement that copying the venus movement and thanks to the see-through case, you could admire the beauty movement. Seriously, it is gorgeous and mesmerizing to look at. Also it is a safer bet than vintage Chronograph movement, and since it’s brand new, Chinese, no scarcity in parts department and probably cheaper to service.

Mezmerizing to say the least

The buttons is clicky. Nice to push and satisfied to reset. The flyback is fun and it’s kinda scared me whether I abused it or not since it’s fun to use the Chronograph function ha ha.

The dial is quite good. The details is also good. No dust in the dial and the numbers, hands and layout is really nice. An apple to my eye. This makes my sole reason to ditch Seagull 1963, too Chinese for my taste, is abolished. This felt like a European watch, until you read the brand, Sugess. Somehow that brand font kinda…didn’t blend with the beautiful aesthetic of the rest of the dial, seriously, the “Mechanical Chronograph” font is blending perfectly but the brand name just…stands out but in a bad way ha ha.

That “Sugess” kinda not blending to the whole aesthetic IMHO

The visibility? Well it’s easy to see though the design choices makes no lume applied to the hands, which kinda bad for some people but for me it’s OK. The dial, the hands, the case makes a cohesive beauty, especially to see from the top, every time I check time, a smile burst out to see this beautiful design. I guess thanks to Patek and Furlan Marri for the “inspiration” ha ha. It’s a complication that still feels simplistic.

Beautiful, classic and nice to look at.

If I want to complain (as if the box, paint in the crown, sub par leather straps and others didn’t count as complaints), probably in the little details. But the devil is in the details, and if you look “anything” hard enough or long enough, in details, you’ll see the flaws. It’s not like the flaw that I want to emphasize is hard to find, you’ll hear it he he. Yes, you can hear the movement ticking or sweeping, you can hear the shaft when it is pushed, especially when you’re in a silent environment like library or something. Sure it’s not loud like Timex loud (I even put my Timex in a drawer for it) but it is noticeable.

Another flaw is the water resistant, seriously the back case said it’s 5 ATM, but just like when I have Seagull 1963, I don’t have the confidence or even faith in it ha ha (espescially with the sound of the movement that is…loud?). It feels delicate or even dare I say….fragile? I mean Chronograph is a complicated complication and to abuse this watch is something that either I don’t have the guts or just cautious. This isn’t a beater watch that for sure, but as dressy piece? Absolutely ha ha (and that’s the problem, I’m a casual guy 😅). Also, didn’t trust Chinese product since I have bad experience with Chinese goods in the past he he.

Strap monster indeed

But in conclusion, I really love this watch. It really captures the vintage and elegant feels of the inspiration models, put it in the affordable price but still classy. I have this watch for more than 3 months and accuracy wise, it is reliable. So yeah, if you want to, buy this watch, or any other model that Sugess put. They got Zenith elprimo inspired, Hamilton inspired and so on. I happen to choose this one because it is more “generic” and didn’t resemble any iconic watch (but blatantly copied Furlan Marri though ha ha).

Respecting the 1963 pilot heritage, bundtrsap he he

PS: I just realized that the brand Sugess didn’t fit the classic and vintage style of the watch. It’s like the modern element didn’t fit the whole vintage vibe. Maybe if the dial is sterile it would be better. So, if you wanna buy Sugess Chronograph in other model, try to find something more modern he he.

Rima Vintage Chronograph. When Nostalgia, Sentimental and Compromise Attack

I recently found a vintage classic chronograph with the aesthetic design that makes me droll ha ha (classic Panda like with no date or complications, because chronograph already complicated enough). With the price that kinda on my budget. Thus I sold my restored Poljot for it for lesser price from my efforts to restore my Poljot. I sold it for the same price of this watch Rp. 2.500.000,- or approximately $178.

Look how gorgeous it is

To be clear, I didn’t recognize the brand, which is Rima. My Google search also didn’t bring a clearer picture, but I found that this watch produced in the 1940 (probably) and seeing the look of it, it probably is. So, will I regret this decision or I’ll be happy with this. Let’s dig and find out shall we.

First thing first, the spec:
• Model: 2 counter chronograph with snap back hands
• Movement: Handwriting Cal. Landelon 48 (probably, I didn’t open the back case)
• Size:Case size Approximately 34-35mm without crown. With crown approximately 37-38mm. Lug to lug width approximately 40mm (this size is SWEET!!!!)
• lug width 17mm (seriously,WHY!!!)
• Dial: probably champagne, but maybe silver patina, nonetheless beautiful though scarred
• Body material: Chrome plated stainless
steel with rust here and there

I probably have the patina fever that most vintage watch lover have. This makes ordinary people will look at the watch and say “that watch is damaged or broken” but for vintage lover, it has its own charm. Beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder I guess.

The imperfection makes it perfect for me ha ha ha

My experience with Poljot also taught me to expect the worst of it even though the seller said the movement works fine, but I guess “fine” for vintage watch probably. And yeah, the second hand works fine. But chronograph hand have the tendency to stopped, also the snap back didn’t aligned exactly at 12 o’clock. Gladly the power reserve works fine around 40+ hour in one full winding. And strangely, the accuracy is somehow better than my Poljot, which is somehow really good for this type of vintage watch.

65 miles per hour? Is this AMERICA?! And check that not hands, really a bummer he he

Kinda sad to see the back case is sterile, a logo or something should be cool

I found the movement (Landelon 48) to be unique. Usually a Chronograph pusher (manual or automatic one) have some “resistance” or some mechanism for the lever or pusher to bounce back to normal position so we can pushed it again, either for pause the chronograph or to reset it. This one kinda freaks me out at first. I thought the pusher is stuck or something ha ha. I need to scrape it then pushed it at first until I found out that the crown have a weird spring or mechanism that can be pushed to make the pusher back to the normal position. I don’t know if it’s just unique because my watch had been tempered or it is the characteristic of the movement, either way, cool he he.

There should be some signage or something in the crown but still, cool and the spring mechanism is really fun

That glass is cool, not dome enough but flat and fits the whole case

This watch is really the epitome of vintage watch. In size, design and overall beauty of it. The small diameter is the perfect analogy of beautiful things didn’t demand attention (unlike the Hulk-huge size of modern wtch), the beautiful things radiate and attract attention by being subtle, classy and elegant. I really loves this watch for the sheer simplicity and elegance, even if the watch it self is battered, scarred and looks really old. It has it own charm.

I love the champagne dial and all the imperfections

I’ll be the first to admit, that vintage watch is a very niche and weird genre. There is some sentimental value and nostalgia plays a dirty game to make you compromise all the imperfections and even if the broken mechanism that should’ve been a deal breaker if it’s a modern watch. I have this weird obsession with mechanical movement, and to know that this watch is pure mechanical, unlike Mecha-quartz that sometimes hide it’s movement with eliminating the seconds hand, is a bliss. I love to see the sweeping second and chronograph hand (even if the chronograph function in this watch didn’t work perfectly and stutter like my Poljot).

Vintage watch is a test of the patience and endurance. You know that it’s a delicate and fragile thing that needed extra care. I wouldn’t recommended it to everyone, due to it’s prone to accident and maintenance. But it is a worthy experience and the design is timeless. You should try some vintage watch, but don’t try the chronograph one ha ha. But for me, all the difficulties is worth it. I really loves this watch. I think this is a keeper. My next goal is probably another mechanical chronograph with sub seconds in 12 and 6 and also that Steeldive 1952 in the future ha ha. Well, bottom-line, this watch is perfect for me.

Seagull 1963 Air Force Mechanical Chronograph…Awesome ^_^

Well, I always wanted a mechanical Chronograph. Yeah it’s expensive and yeah it’s probably not a beater watch. But hey, it’s cool and sometimes you need a quirky one like that ha ha (as if my Vostok ain’t quirky enough). So one day I found on the net someone sold his Seagull with “affordable” price (Rp. 2.800.000,- or approximately $ 197) so yeah, despite my saving I just rushed and get it ha ha. I mean, the other affordable mechanical chronograph is probably a shady Chinese or Quartz (I became a snob and considering Quartz as lesser being he he). I mean, I wanna buy Undone with it’s quirky Quartz-matic hybrid thing, but with the price of this Seagull? This is a win, a jackpot or home-run.

So here’s the watch, cool to say the least. Just to sum it, the only complaints is the strap that is typical Nato (too long and kinda like mudflap). And here are the spec :
Movement: Seagull Hand Wind Mechanical 19-Jewel Chronograph
Case: Polished Stainless Steel, 38mm diameter x 15mm thick
Back: Exhibition window back
Crystal: Acrylic
Band: Olive green NATO style strap, buckle closure. 18mm lug
Water Resistant: 30 meters

You probably think, what’s the big deal? It’s Chinese for God sake? But did you know that Seagull actually is a Venus movement from Swiss? Chinese bought the machine, the patent and basically made their own version. So this ain’t just a Chinese watch, this is THE Chinese watch. The upper echelon or one the highest hierarchy in the Chinese watch or even the world. And this watch is proudly scream “I’m a Chinese watch” and it’s a good thing because this is Chinese watch at its finest.

And “wow” is what came to my mind seeing this watch. It’s not like finesse or luxury like Rolex, Tudor or Swiss watch, but something more…DAAAAAMN feeling if you catch my drift. I mean, this watch is looks classy but at the same time fun & quirky (probably due to the Chinese army style and that socialist stuff). But you can’t deny the charm in it. It’s fun.

This watch is an homage or re-release of the 1963 air force watch and I can say this is a faithful reincarnation, down to the size (yes there’s a bigger version when people wrist isn’t large like today’s 45mm plus watch he he). True the size may not for everyone but still this watch is the bomb.

Check the dome glass and glass back where the beautiful movement shown with all it’s glory. Beautiful is an under statement for this one.

The movement is smooth and each time you use the chronograph feature, the movement is “tilted” in a way that you aware and sure the engine kicked in and all system go. And when you push the third button, the hands jumped right back at the center in a jiffy. It’s satisfying. And due to the mechanical nature, you won’t worried the battery dried out, but worry the engine is “break” die to the excessive use ha ha.

That’s also my other complaint, despite the 3 bar ATM resistant, I feel the watch is not a beater watch (though it’s a air force watch), I even don’t want to wear this when I wash my hand or do ablution. Yeah, don’t know why but it’s not because the price (I even abuse my more expensive Steinhart he he). It’s the machinery that makes me don’t want to abuse it probably. Either this is a pro or cons I don’t know, but it makes me adore this more he he.

All in all, this watch is an awesome. You should give it a try. One thing that might make people hesitant to get it is the Chinese stigma (cheap, fragile, communist, etc). But seriously, it’s 2019 and you people still act like living in Cold War or something? I don’t care what watch does it came from, but credits due where credit deserves and this watch is awesome. Period.

So, if buying this watch means I support communist or something, so put me in jail because I adore this watch and my Vostok ha ha. So I just try to compare two of my favorite watch.

In terms of thickness, well this watch is not really different from my Amphibia, which is good.

The strap is also on the same size so it makes the watch more awesome. More options he he. So yeah, let me have my communist party with the emphasis on party ha ha.