Recently, I just found out that Sugess makes another homage with ST19 Seagull movement, again kinda boring though, but this one is special, for me at least, they make a homage of Blancpain Air Command!!! I sell my previous Sugess Chronograph (thank God that watch is beautiful so no wonder there will be buyer for it) to upgrade into this one ha ha. And voila, I bought it in a heartbeat, no regret whatsover somehow.
After waiting for a while, finally it arrives!!! And again, the packaging is the same as the previous Sugess, nothing to write home about. It came with two easy replace leather strap but with so-so quality (not comfortable if you ask me). It also came with a manual but…it could be applied to any ST19 movement watch. Nothing special in packaging area, carry on then.
But the watch itself…it is glorious!!!! To sum it, the rest of the blog probably full of praise and a little complaint (cuz nothing is perfect, there always flaw(s) in everything). First thing first, the spec:
- Type : Chrono Heritage S423 (let’s just call it Air Command, it is cooler that way)
- Diameter : 42mm
- Thickness : 11.5mm (13mm with sapphire glass)
- Lug width : 22mm
- Lug to Lug : 51mm
- Glass : Domed Sapphire Crystal
- Movement : Manual winding Caliber Seagull ST1901 (Gold Swan Neck Version), 21 Jewels
- BPM : 21,600 BPH
- Power Reserve : 35+ Hours
- Water Resistant : 5ATM (arguably)
This watch is a copy (homage, or anything you wanna call) of Blancpain Air Command, an almost exact replica with a slight difference (most notable dial branding and movement). The original is a beautiful watch with a big size (just like Fifty Fathom). And Blancpain heard the cries of many people who said the watch is too big so they make a smaller version of it, a 36.2mm diameter if it, which is a marvel just like the bigger brother, though I need to see the smaller version to decide whether the smaller is better suit for me. So far this one is perfect for me.
Back to the Sugess, this watch is a real show stopper. It’s huge but not ginormous or gigantic, it’s beautiful and it is commanding ha ha. Designwise, if you love Blancpain Air Command, you probably gonna love this. In Sugess Patek Phillipe homage, the brand Sugess on the dial is kinda out of place and annoying, but in this Air Command the word Sugess somehow blends beautifully with the whole dial aesthetic. The bezel also beautiful yet minimalistic, the bi-directional bezel with 24 clicks which is firm enough not to accidentally moved, just like the real Blancpain and most GMT watch (if Sugess decided to make GMT watch, this bezel is primed for the whole GMT bezel needs). The printed dial is beautiful and symmetrical, kudos for Blancpain for design this beautiful specimen. Even if it’s crowded or busy, it still looks beautiful and elegant. The hands also commanding, with sword-pointy hands in all really points out the elegance of it’s design.
The watch also reasonably thick but not…fat? The case is beautifully designed. The upper view (dial) is gorgeous, the bottom side also marvelous with see through case showing the beautiful ST19 movement, side view is also good, though the side view have annoying part…the crown. The crown have this “ugly” brand of Sugess. The crown have this generic “S” that makes the watch less perfect. Thank God the pusher is a joy to behold, and hold to activate ha ha. To sum it, a proportional watch.
The best part is how the watch wears in my 17cm wrist, it fits somehow. Sure spec wise the size is big (commanding) but this is a pilot watch, it needs to be visible, but somehow this watch flawlessly fits into my wrist, unlike my Steeldive 1952 (the Blancpain fifty fathom homage). Both are long watch, both have 51mm lug to lug but somehow this Air Command seems more…wearable (the Steeldive would required a “perfect” or have to be fit strap to make the watch stand firm on my wrist). Probably this is due to the slope or curve in the lug, unlike the straight pointy lug in Fifty Fathom. Seriously, it is almost magical to wear it, kinda like seamlessly blends. Maybe it’s because the diameter and stap is bigger thus makes the proportion more compact. I really enjoys wearing this watch, I wonder of the smaller version is better or probably weird due to the comparison with the bigger brother. To me, this size is perfect.
The lume is very good, just like my previous Sugess, this one just like that but better, especially because the bezel also has lume. This watch is stands out in the light and in the dark, very visible as pilot watch should be. Shine bright like diamond he he.
What about movement? Well, standard ST19 movement. Pretty accurate, beautiful to look at and reliable. If there a downside, probably the ticking noise. It is noticeable, though only if you put it beside you when you sleep. Barely noticeable but still noticeable. But yeah, this movement is a heaven for micro brand to make an affordable chronograph mechanical watch. No complaint here. Oh yeah, about gold swan neck version, barely noticable unless you saw the back case when you activate the chronograph function. So IMHO not a must, the non-swan version is cheaper and still good. The snapback or flyback combine with the satisfying pusher makes chronograph activation and stopping a pure joy, all for an affordable price.
This watch is a very handsome watch, strap monster and you can dress it up or dress it down. A very versatile watch that could be wore in any occasion. If you don’t mind the fact that this is a homage, copy or whatever you call it. This one is a keeper for me. It’s big, not loud but gentle and demanding. A very awesome watch. Kudos for Blancpain for this watch (Sugess just blatanly homage it he he).
Sounds of Giberish 